5 Reasons Why a Photo Book Is Right for You

The post 5 Reasons Why a Photo Book Is Right for You appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

These days, we spend so much time viewing our photos on screens that we’re liable to forget how powerful the printed image can be. And indeed, printing a photo – or two dozen, or a hundred – is a wonderful experience for nearly every photographer who tries it; it comes with all sorts of benefits, including a newfound appreciation for the photographic medium, not to mention a deep and lasting sense of satisfaction.

But when photographers do get around to printing, they tend to gravitate toward wall art and small paper prints, overlooking one of the most elegant methods of image display: the photo book. I think that’s a huge mistake. I’ve printed hundreds of images for art shows, yet my favorite print product of all time is, without a doubt, a photo book I designed and purchased from Saal Digital. (No, I’m not exaggerating; I keep it front and center on my coffee table at home.)

In this article, I explain why photo books are so incredible, and I offer five practical reasons you should definitely order a book of your own. Whether you’re struggling to determine the best way to turn those digital files into physical works of art or you’re simply on the fence about printing your images, it’s time to explore some photo book magic!

1. A photo book keeps your important images safe

It pains me to admit it, but the digital world is unstable. Your images might seem safe on your desktop or saved to the cloud, but so much can happen: hard drives can fail or get lost, servers can crash, or you can unwittingly delete years of photos with a couple of poorly chosen clicks.

On the other hand, high-quality photo books are made to last. My Saal Digital Professional Line Photo Book, for instance, features an acrylic cover that protects it from spills, dirt, and other domestic hazards, as well as archival-quality matte paper that won’t fade for over 100 years. (In fact, a photo book is even more fade-resistant than a wall-mounted print because the images are lit only when being viewed.)

Plus, a photo book is very difficult to lose. It’s not like a flash drive, which can fall behind your desk, or even little 4×6 prints, which often get filed away in a dark corner of the basement, never to be seen again. Simply set your photo book on your coffee table or bookshelf, and you’ll always know precisely where to find it.

And because you can include dozens or hundreds of images in a single book, you don’t have to worry about prioritizing a few photos over the rest. You have plenty of room to include your most essential shots – of landscapes, of your travels, or of your loved ones. So if you’re serious about preserving your treasured images, a photo book is an excellent option. 

2. A photo book looks great on your coffee table

People love coffee-table books for two reasons: They look amazing, and they’re functional. Enter the photo book, a beautiful, one-of-a-kind coffee-table book made just for you.

The best photo books are breathtakingly elegant, and you can even design them using colors that complement your furniture and walls. Saal Digital’s Professional Line Photo Books, for example, come in a variety of cover finishes, including slate wood-look, leatherette white, and leatherette black. Photographers seeking the highest-quality prints won’t be disappointed, either; not only does Saal Digital do a beautiful job of rendering each and every image, but the company offers ICC profiles to ensure you get the results you envision.

Additionally, a photo book, unlike a retail coffee-table book, is meaningful. You can use it to display your best landscape images, or you can fill it with photos of your parents and siblings, children and friends. You can spend time perusing it with family, and you can show it to guests when they come by. It’ll be the rare coffee-table book everyone wants to see!

3. A photo book is an amazing gift

We’re all familiar with the struggle of gift-giving: On the one hand, you want to give something amazing, and on the other hand, you have no idea what to get. 

Fortunately for photographers, the photo book is a fantastic solution to this problem.

It doesn’t even matter what kind of subjects you shoot; your family and friends would love to receive your images in book form, even if you don’t realize it. Do you like to photograph landscapes? Then give a photo book full of your top landscape shots. Do you like to photograph travel scenes? A premium book featuring pages upon pages of far-flung destinations will look amazing. 

And if you prefer to photograph closer to home, even better. Imagine your parents’ reactions when you present them with a hand-designed book that shows their grandchildren’s birthday celebrations, concerts, and Halloween costumes in high-resolution detail!

4. A photo book is a great way to showcase your portfolio

Are you a photographer seeking new clients? Then it’s essential that you put your best foot forward when displaying your work. Since most photographers rely on portfolio websites, a photo book could be your ticket to standing out.

I’m not claiming that you should neglect your online presence – only that you might use a physical book to supplement your marketing. If you have a meeting with potential commercial clients, for instance, you could take along a photo book to show them just how great your images look when printed. And if you’re an event photographer trying to sell your services to a wedding couple, you could use the photo book to share samples of your best work. 

You’ll need to design the book carefully to give off professional vibes, and that’s where custom design options come in handy. The best photo book printers let you pick out your preferred colors and materials, and some even let you adjust the page design. I also recommend ordering from a company that doesn’t add its logo to any of the pages; that way, the final product has a truly authentic feel. Again, Saal Digital’s Professional Line Photo Books are a favorite here; they meet all of the above requirements and more!

By the way, while photo books are certainly a great way to share images with clients, you don’t need to be an active professional to appreciate a nice physical portfolio. As an enthusiast, you likely encounter other photographers – perhaps at meetups and photo walks – and bringing out your custom photo book is a great way to start a discussion or even get feedback on your work.

5. You can carry a photo book everywhere

Wall-mounted prints are great for displaying images in a fixed location, but when it comes to portability, photo books have them beat. 

Photo books are small, they’re (relatively) thin, and you can slip one in a backpack, a glove compartment, a laptop case, and maybe even a purse (depending on the size). 

That means you can show your photo book to literally anyone you meet. You can take it with you when you visit friends, and you can carry it with you when you travel to see relatives. Of course, the more you take your book around, the more you’ll subject it to wear and tear, but that can be a worthwhile tradeoff. 

Plus, you can expect a durable product to hold up pretty well. My Saal Digital photo book has been around the block and is now several years old, but it still looks outstanding!

Bonus: Creating a photo book is a fun project

Are you the kind of person who enjoys scrapbooking and other crafts? Then you’re going to love making a photo book.

While not every printing company allows you to customize your product, Saal Digital goes above and beyond. I’ve already mentioned that the Professional Line Photo Books provide you with a variety of options, but it’s important to emphasize that you can take advantage of the company’s intuitive design software, which lets you adjust the layout of every page to suit your preferences. And you can do it anywhere you please: in the browser, on your desktop, or even on your smartphone via the Saal Digital mobile app (available for iOS and Android).

In other words, you can have tons of fun selecting photos, choosing from various themes, arranging the image spreads, and even adding text. You don’t have to be a graphic design expert, either; the software allows for various levels of independence, so you can work with the perfect amount of support. (On the other hand, if you are a graphic design expert, you do have the option to upload a PDF directly to the company website!)

A photo book might not be a conventional craft project, but for the right person, it can be an absolute blast!

Reasons why a photo book is right for you: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the value of printing your images, and you’re familiar with the many benefits offered by photo books.

To reiterate, if you’ve never printed your favorite photos before, I highly recommend you give it a shot; seeing your images reproduced on paper is a fantastic experience, and trust me when I say that you’ll be glad you made the effort.

Of course, if you do decide to print, you can’t go wrong with a high-quality photo book. Not only will it last for decades, but you can put it to good use: as a gorgeous coffee-table book, as a portfolio showcase, or as a meaningful gift.

So head on over to the Saal Digital website and get started with your order. Enjoy the design process, and when it’s all over and you have your finished photo book in your hands, leave a comment below letting us know your thoughts!

Saal Digital is a paid partner of dPS.

The post 5 Reasons Why a Photo Book Is Right for You appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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JPEG vs HEIC: Which File Format Is Right for You?

The post JPEG vs HEIC: Which File Format Is Right for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

For decades, one of the biggest debates in digital photography was RAW vs JPEG – but in recent years, much of the conversation has shifted to JPEG vs HEIC. While understanding these two image formats isn’t as essential as mastering the basics like aperture, shutter, and ISO, it’s important to know how your photos are being stored and shared so you can get the most out of them.

Both JPEG and HEIC are great options and each one has its benefits and drawbacks. At the end of the day, what really matters is choosing an option that is right for you. In this article, I delve into the advantages and disadvantages of these two formats, and I explain who should pick JPEG and who should pick HEIC.

Let’s dive right in!

JPEG format: overview

My Fuji X100F – used to capture this image – only offers two file format options: RAW and JPEG. JPEG is great for everyday shooting when you don’t plan on doing much editing. HEIC could be even better (if only the camera could do it!).

I remember a world without the JPEG format, and it was not good. When I was a kid in the early days of the internet and connected computing, bandwidth was a precious commodity. Modems were slow and hard drives were measured in megabytes, not gigabytes. Downloading or uploading a few pictures meant waiting anywhere from minutes to hours, and that was on a good day. Formats such as GIF and BMP dominated the nascent networked landscape, but the former was limited to 256 colors and the latter took up far too much storage space. These troublesome limitations made GIF, BMP, and other image formats frustrating and cumbersome even as the internet took hold in households across the world.

JPEG, an image format created by the Joint Picture Experts Group in the early 1990s, was designed to give the best of both worlds. Images saved as JPEGs could store significantly more color data than their outdated counterparts while simultaneously taking up less storage space. It was a win-win, and it was exactly what the world needed as image sharing exploded during the decade of grunge music, ripped jeans, and dial-up internet.

JPEG has since become the dominant image format across the entire digital-picture landscape, and all cameras, from mirrorless to DSLR to mobile, are able to create JPEG files.

JPEG compression can result in smaller files, but it comes with a significant loss in quality. Note the streaks in the blue sky, the reduction in sharpness in the grass, and the chunky pixelated trees in the background of this compressed version of my initial JPEG.

One of the most useful characteristics of the JPEG, and a key reason this format exploded in popularity, is the flexibility it gives people when creating images. You, the user, get to specify whether you want to prioritize image quality or file size. Most cameras let you select the level of compression you want to apply to your JPEG files; this is what affects their visual fidelity as well as their file size. Image editing software allows you to do the same, and even to this day, JPEG remains an excellent choice for photographers who want to balance visual quality with reasonable file sizes – as well as folks who want images that are easy to email, share on social media, and send to friends in a group text.

However, while JPEG excels at offering a great balance between image quality and storage space, it lacks many capabilities that are important to modern digital photography. JPEG files throw out lots of useful color data to shrink the file size, which means you have very little flexibility when adjusting colors, bringing details out from the shadows, or creating shots with a high dynamic range. Additionally, JPEG files are 8-bit, which means each pixel can contain 256 tonal values for each of the three primary colors of light (red/green/blue). That was plenty back in the 1990s, but modern digital cameras capture so much information that 8-bit color often just doesn’t cut it anymore.

I use JPEG for shots like this when I need to take lots of images and cull and share them quickly.

As cameras, especially smartphones, become increasingly capable, and with even casual photographers demanding better quality and expanded editing freedom, a new image format was needed to address these shortcomings: HEIC, which I explore in the next section.

JPEG pros:
• One of the most widely used image formats in the world
• Easy to share and edit JPEG files due to the format’s incredible popularity
• Good mix of size and quality

JPEG cons:
• 8-bit color format can be limiting for modern photographers
• Compression can leave unpleasant artifacts
• Nearly unusable for video recording

I take nearly all my casual, everyday shots and even travel snaps in JPEG. I know that, no matter what, the format just works.

HEIC format: overview

HEIC, or High-Efficiency Image Container, was developed in 2015. HEIC was designed to meet the needs of modern digital photographers while also taking into consideration the small file sizes that remain essential for posting and sharing.

HEIC utilizes a compression algorithm that, much like JPEG, allows pictures to be small in size but also ensures the files include enough color information for in-depth editing. HEIC also supports features like transparency and storing more than one image in a single file. JPEG, while useful, simply cannot accommodate modern options like these because they didn’t exist when JPEG was invented.

HEIC is a 10-bit image format. Therefore, each pixel can contain 1024 values of each red/green/blue color. That’s a dramatic increase over JPEG’s 256 color values per channel, and it allows HEIC images to capture rich color detail and sharpness that are impossible with JPEG images. Most mobile phone cameras use complex computing techniques to make everyday shots look amazing, and HEIC handles these kinds of photos with aplomb. Plus, because a single HEIC file can contain multiple images, the format can also be used for video – a medium that is increasingly popular among modern photographers and even casual shooters.

I shot this on my iPhone using the HEIC format. The original 12-megapixel file was 2.5 megabytes in size, whereas a JPEG version would have required about twice as much space.

HEIC’s popularity rose dramatically when Apple set it as the default image format on its September 2017 iPhones (such as the iPhone 8 and iPhone X). While users could opt to save pictures using the traditional JPEG format, most did not – which meant that millions of people around the world were suddenly using the new HEIC format without even realizing it.

Other manufacturers soon followed suit, and HEIC is now supported by the most widely used operating systems on mobile phones and computers; it’s also supported by many DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

HEIC pros:
• Much smaller file sizes compared to JPEG
• 10-bit color format allows for much richer images with greater detail
• A single HEIC file can contain multiple images, which is great for video shooters

HEIC cons:
• Not nearly as popular as JPEG
• Many older DSLR and mirrorless cameras don’t support HEIC
• Not all image-editing software works with HEIC files

I use the HEIC format on my iPhone because the shots look great and take up much less space than JPEG files. This matters a lot when you can’t swap out memory cards like a traditional DSLR camera! Saving space on a single image doesn’t matter so much, but the storage really adds up when you have thousands of photos.

JPEG vs HEIC: post-processing flexibility

While HEIC has many significant advantages over its older counterpart, don’t discount JPEG just yet. If you’re the type of photographer who prefers a hands-on approach to editing and post-processing, there are still a lot of good reasons to use JPEG.

Almost all modern image-editing software works with HEIC files, but legacy software – such as older versions of Photoshop and some computers running older operating systems – don’t support them. You are more likely to encounter situations where, due to the software you are using or even your computer’s operating system, you are unable to work with HEIC files, whereas JPEG files pose no problems at all.

Fortunately, these issues will become increasingly uncommon as software gets updated and more people upgrade to newer computers. And the fact that HEIC supports transparency gives this format a significant advantage over JPEG in many post-processing situations.

Because of this, there isn’t a clear winner in terms of which format is best for post-processing flexibility; it all depends on your unique needs, the software you use, and your goals as a photo editor. Both formats are good, but JPEG excels with older software and computers, while HEIC is great for image editors who live on the cutting edge of technology.

Most modern image-editing programs can work with HEIC files. Affinity Photo had no trouble manipulating this HEIC file of a winter landscape, and the same holds true for Photoshop and many other apps.

JPEG vs HEIC: file size

When it comes to file size, HEIC beats out JPEG quite handily. The compression algorithms used to create HEIC files are able to pack more color data in a smaller-sized file in nearly every situation, which means that for photographers who prioritize file size, HEIC is almost always going to be the better option.

HEIC even offers a Lossless option, which reduces file size without any reduction in quality whatsoever. JPEG does not allow for this at all; JPEG images, even those saved at 100% quality, utilize a degree of lossy compression.

A JPEG export of this image would result in a file size of 2.1 MB. An HEIC export would be about 50% smaller.

JPEG vs HEIC: sharing

One of the most important benefits that JPEG has over HEIC is that it’s simply more popular – massively more popular, in fact. If you shoot in JPEG and share your picture over text or email, or you post it to a social network, it’ll work just fine. It doesn’t matter what device anyone is using, what software they’ve installed, or what internet browser your friends and family use. JPEG works great, and it works everywhere. Even websites that require you to upload files for a warranty claim or proof of purchase will accept JPEG as a valid format, but they’ll rarely accept HEIC.

HEIC, by contrast, is so new that you can never be quite sure that your photos will be viewable when you share them. The list of websites, apps, and social networks that allow HEIC is growing rapidly, but it just can’t compete with the sheer dominance of JPEG in the photo-sharing landscape.

Even Apple, which uses HEIC by default on iPhones, acknowledges the format’s compatibility limitations. You have two options for taking photos: HEIC (High Efficiency) or JPEG (Most Compatible.) As HEIC grows in popularity, this particular point will become less relevant – but for now, if you want your images to be shareable with the widest number of people across the most possible platforms, JPEG still wins.

To change the image format on your iPhone, go to Settings>Camera>Formats. High Efficiency is HEIC, and Most Compatible is JPEG.

JPEG vs HEIC: metadata

This might not matter to casual shooters, but for photographers who want to push their images to the limit, HEIC has the edge in terms of extra information storage. Both formats can store EXIF (Exchangeable Image File Format) data such as exposure, camera model, time, date, and even GPS location.

However, HEIC is capable of storing additional metadata such as a depth map, which can be used by software like Lightroom to apply masks based on how close or far away certain parts of the picture are. These extra metadata options might not be useful for many people, but for professionals, hobbyists, and those who just want to explore more editing options, HEIC metadata is simply better than what JPEG can offer.

HEIC can store metadata information beyond what JPEG allows, such as depth. This can be used to create depth range masks in Lightroom; as a result, you can apply edits to portions of an image based on their distance from the lens.

JPEG vs HEIC: verdict

While both JPEG and HEIC are perfectly fine file formats, HEIC is the clear winner for forward-thinking photographers who want the most out of their cameras and image-editing software. JPEG was an incredible option for decades, but it has been eclipsed by HEIC in almost every way.

Of course, JPEG is by no means unusable and continues to be the default option for many cameras and mobile phones, but HEIC offers more features with less storage space. While not as widely adopted as JPEG, HEIC will almost certainly become universal, and for people who want to make use of its advanced options right now, HEIC is an outstanding choice.

JPEG vs HEIC FAQ

Can I convert a JPEG file to HEIC?

JPEG files can be converted to HEIC with many modern software programs such as Photoshop and Luminar. While the resulting HEIC file will be smaller in size, you can’t add metadata like a depth map by simply converting from JPEG.

Can I convert a HEIC file to JPEG?

Any application that can open HEIC files can export them as JPEG. This is a great option for people who want to shoot in HEIC but occasionally need to share files with people whose computers don’t support HEIC.

How do I know if my camera shoots in HEIC?

All DSLR and mirrorless cameras have options to select the file type and quality. Traditionally, the options have been limited to JPEG and RAW, but HEIC is now a standard option on many cameras. You will need to look in your camera’s image-quality or image-format menu options or refer to the manufacturer’s website. You can also do an online search for “[Your Camera Model] HEIC,” which should give you the information you need.

Which format is best for sharing on social media from my mobile phone?

If your mobile phone supports HEIC, that’s generally preferred over JPEG. Most social media apps now support HEIC, and the increase in image quality that HEIC offers over JPEG will help make your images stand out and get noticed. Some social media filters even work with HEIC metadata like depth maps to help you get more creative with your edits.

Will HEIC become outdated just like JPEG?

Eventually, HEIC will likely be replaced with other image formats, but that’s no reason not to embrace it now. No one knows what format will eventually take over from HEIC and it could be years, even decades, before that happens. Until then, the advantages that HEIC offers over JPEG will become increasingly important, especially as more people start to use HEIC instead of JPEG.

The post JPEG vs HEIC: Which File Format Is Right for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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Long Exposure Photography: A Step-By-Step Guide ( Tips)

The post Long Exposure Photography: A Step-By-Step Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Francesco Gola.

Looking to capture breathtaking long exposure photos? Our simple, step-by-step approach will elevate your images to a whole new level.

Long exposure photography produces some of the most powerful, timeless, and all-around breathtaking images you’ll ever encounter. It’s a technique that’s beloved by thousands of professionals, and many beginners spend hours, days, and even years attempting to master the approach.

Now, as a veteran in the field, I have good news and bad news. The good news is that creating stunning long exposure shots isn’t nearly as hard as it seems – in fact, even beginners are capable of producing beautiful results. The bad news is that the technique does require some specialized knowledge; in other words, it’s not an approach you can easily master by fiddling around with your camera settings.

Fortunately, I’m here to help! I’ve captured countless long exposure images, and in this article, I share everything I’ve learned along the way, including:

• The gear you need to get started
• A simple, step-by-step process for pro-level long exposure photography
• Plenty of tips, examples, and ideas for amazing images
• Much more!

By the time you’re done, you’ll see how simple it is to get satisfying results on your first attempt, and you’ll know exactly what to do the next time you’re faced with a great long exposure opportunity.

Let’s dive right in!

What is long exposure photography?

Long exposure photography is a technique that involves capturing a single image over an extended period of time. By dialing in a shutter speed that lasts 1/30s, 1s, 10s, or even an hour, it’s possible to render moving subjects as beautiful blurs while keeping stationary subjects tack-sharp.

Although it may sound complex, the theory behind long exposure images is actually quite simple. It’s all about controlling the amount of time the camera sensor “sees” the world. While stationary subjects remain unchanged regardless of the shutter speed, subjects in motion start to reveal more movement as the exposure time increases. This creates a captivating contrast between sharpness and blur, resulting in images that evoke a sense of fantasy and reality combined.

Let me share a simple example: Imagine you’re taking a photo of a wave crashing against a rock. If you use a fast shutter speed, like 1/1000s, the wave will be frozen in mid-action. But with long exposure, you can slow things down and make the wave look like a soft, ethereal mist. The longer you extend the shutter speed, from 1/100s to 1/10s to 1s or even an hour, the more the moving subjects will blur, adding a touch of magic to your final image.

When is the long exposure technique useful?

Simply put, a long exposures approach is perfect if you want to deliberately incorporate blur into your photos. While some blurring can happen naturally in photography, especially in low-light conditions, long exposure photographers intentionally use blur to create captivating, fine-art style images that blend fantasy and reality.

To get the best results, it’s important to choose a scene that combines elements in motion with stationary subjects. This balance is key. If your scene is constantly moving, like a duck bobbing among the waves, using long exposure will turn the entire shot into a blur. On the other hand, if your scene lacks any motion, such as a leaf resting on a rock, the entire image will appear sharp and won’t feature any of the the mesmerizing effects that long exposure snappers adore.

Landscape photographers particularly love the long exposure technique. Why? Because the beauty of landscapes often lies in their mix of movement and stillness. Waves crashing on the shore, clouds drifting across the sky, and trees swaying in the wind provide the perfect blend of elements. By using long exposures, you can capture these scenes in a way that makes clouds appear like painted streaks and moving water transform into a soft, misty flow.

But don’t limit yourself to landscapes! Long exposure can enhance a variety of subjects and genres. Whether you’re capturing the grandeur of architectural structures, the energy of bustling street scenes, the depth of portraiture, or even the beauty of wildlife, the technique offers endless creative possibilities.

Essential gear for long exposure images

Long exposure photography doesn’t require sophisticated or expensive gear, but it’s also not a technique you can pull off using a handheld point-and-shoot camera. Here’s the equipment I recommend for both casual and serious photographers:

An interchangeable-lens camera

While it’s true that you can achieve impressive results with various devices, including smartphones, using an interchangeable-lens camera, such as a DSLR or a mirrorless camera, will give you more control and flexibility.

An interchangeable-lens camera allows you to manually adjust your settings, giving you precise control over your long exposure shots. This level of control is invaluable when you want to fine-tune the results and capture the image exactly as you envision it.

Furthermore, interchangeable-lens cameras offer a wide range of lenses to choose from. Unlike smartphone cameras, which lack the same level of sharpness and versatility, interchangeable-lens cameras give you the freedom to choose from a variety of high-quality lenses produced by renowned brands like Canon, Nikon, or Sony.

A wide-angle lens

Wide-angle lenses provide you with a broad perspective, allowing you to incorporate a wide range of elements in your composition. Whether it’s capturing the movement of clouds in the background or the graceful flow of waves in the foreground, a wide-angle lens gives you the freedom to include multiple layers and create a sense of depth in your images.

By using a wide-angle lens, you can capture scenes with a three-dimensional feel. The expansive view helps you include captivating foreground, midground, and background elements, adding depth and visual interest to your photos.

A tripod

Now, let’s talk about an absolute essential accessory for long exposure photography: the tripod. When it comes to capturing those mesmerizing long exposure shots, a tripod is non-negotiable.

Why? A tripod will keep your camera rock-steady throughout those extended exposures. Without it, you’ll end up with frustratingly blurry shots, no matter how advanced your camera’s image stabilization is.

Note: Not all tripods are created equal. It’s crucial to invest in a quality tripod that can withstand the elements, especially if you’re shooting near the coast where gusts of wind can be quite demanding.

But while you want a tripod that is sturdy, you also don’t want to feel like you’re lugging around a heavy piece of equipment. Look for a tripod that strikes the right balance between durability and portability, making it easier for you to carry it on your photography adventures.

A neutral density filter

Neutral density filters are like sunglasses for your camera lens, allowing you to control the amount of light that reaches the sensor. They play a crucial role in long exposure photography, especially when shooting during the day or in bright conditions.

By using a neutral density filter, you can lengthen your shutter speed without overexposing the final image. This means you can capture those mesmerizing long exposures even in broad daylight or during the golden hours.

These filters come in various strengths, typically measured in stops. The higher the number of stops, the darker the filter, and the longer the exposure you can achieve. Common strengths include 3-stop, 6-stop, and 10-stop filters.

When using a neutral density filter, it’s important to find a balance between the desired effect and the amount of light reduction. A lighter filter may be sufficient for slightly lengthened exposures, while a stronger filter is needed for ultra-long exposures.

A remote release

A remote release is technically optional for long exposures, but in my view, it really is a game-changer. It lets you snap your photos without even touching the camera’s shutter button.

(Why is this important? Well, every time you press that button, it causes a little shake, which can lead to blurry photos. With a remote release, you can trigger the shutter from a distance, ensuring crisp and clear images every time.)

It’s not difficult ot use, either; just connect the remote release to your camera, position yourself or step away from the camera, and press the button on the remote to take the shot. This way, you avoid any unwanted movement and achieve the best image quality possible.

How to capture long exposure photos: a step-by-step approach

Ready to get into the nitty-gritty and start capturing beautiful images? Here’s the approach I use:

Step 1: Study the weather

Long exposure photography can rise and fall depending on the weather. If you look at the long exposure shots throughout this article, you’ll notice that they almost always feature clouds as part of intense, eye-catching skies.

Therefore, partly cloudy skies are often best for long exposure photography, though you can also work with mostly cloudy or even moody, overcast horizons. Flat white skies (i.e., clouds with no texture) are best avoided – in general, the long exposure effect will be lost on these scenes, and you’ll end up with a drab shot.

Most important of all, a day with a cloudless sky is a good day to have a drink with friends, not to make long exposures. No clouds mean no drama, and as with flat overcast skies, a long exposure won’t actually do much.

Step 2: Visit the location well in advance

In a long exposure photo, the world looks completely different from how you see it with your eyes. You must see a long exposure scene with your mind, imagining the look of moving clouds or the force of the sea. And this takes time – certainly longer than it takes to shoot a single, fast-shutter-speed composition.

To address this issue, and to ensure you return home with a strong shot or two, I recommend you scout the location ahead of time. Think about any moving objects you might encounter, such as clouds, water, or even birds. Try to determine how they’ll move on the day of your long exposure photoshoot (you might even take some long exposure test shots).

Also, use a photo planning app to determine where the sun will be positioned during your final shot, then take steps to avoid putting it in the frame. Why? Well, the sun moves across the sky, so if you include it in your composition, you’ll end up with a bright streak of light, which generally does not look great in an otherwise magical long exposure shot.

Step 3: Set up your gear

At this point in the long exposure shooting process, you’ll want to mount your camera on the tripod, then set up any relevant accessories, such as your filter holder (if you plan to use drop-in filters), and your remote shutter release. (As I discussed above, a remote release is hugely helpful, though you can also get away with a remote shooting app on your phone or your camera’s self-timer).

Note: While you’ll need to install the filter holder on the front of your lens, wait to actually add the filter. This is very important!

Step 4: Compose the image and lock focus

Refine your composition, then set your focus.

In general, you’ll want to keep the entire shot sharp from foreground to background, so focus at the hyperfocal distance (about a third of the way into the scene). If you’re struggling to determine where to focus, try using a depth-of-field calculator such as PhotoPills.

If you are using manual focus, go ahead and set the lens’s focus ring exactly where you want it. If you are using autofocus, position your active autofocus point over your main subject, half-press the shutter button to engage the focus, then toggle your lens from Autofocus to Manual. That way, the focus will remain locked, even if you accidentally press the shutter button again.

Step 5: Set the exposure

Now it’s time to choose your essential camera settings. First, set your camera to Manual (M) mode or Aperture Priority (A/Av) mode and your ISO to your camera’s lowest native value (probably ISO 50, ISO 100, or ISO 200).

Then set the aperture to an appropriate value for the scene (for landscapes, I suggest between f/8 and f/11), pick the shutter speed based on your camera’s recommendation, and take a test shot.

Check your histogram to determine whether you’ve nailed the exposure (do not trust your display; it is too bright!). The test is complete when you get a correct exposure, so adjust your shutter speed or exposure compensation, then keep shooting until you get the result you want.

(Side note: It’s true that there is no universally correct result on the histogram, but there are histograms that are universally incorrect; namely, histograms skewed completely to the right or left side, indicating overexposure or underexposure, respectively.)

Once a test shot is successful, write down the shutter speed you used for that image, then move on to the next step.

Step 6: Add your filter

Now add your neutral density filter. If you’re shooting in near darkness and you don’t need an ultra-long exposure (e.g., you’re okay with an exposure in the five-second to thirty-second range), you can get away with shooting filterless, but for most long exposure shots, a filter is a good idea.

If your filter is very strong (10 stops, for example), you will not be able to see through the viewfinder or Live View. Do not worry, though – if you have followed the guide up to this point, you will notice that we have already made the composition and set the focus. You may be shooting blind, but all is prepared and your camera will see everything perfectly.

Step 7: Switch to Bulb mode

Bulb mode allows you to discard your camera’s thirty-second shutter speed limit, so if your camera has this option, I recommend using it. If your camera doesn’t have Bulb mode, or if your filter isn’t especially dark and/or you’re shooting in strong light, you may not need to make this change.

Step 8: Calculate the right shutter speed and take your long exposure shot

You’re almost there; how are you holding up? In this step, all you need to do is determine the perfect shutter speed, which requires a simple calculation.

Remember the shutter speed that you noted down from the test shot you took during Step 5? Now you must adjust the shutter speed to compensate for the number of stops introduced by the filter.

For example, if your test shot was 1/15s and you’re using a 10-stop filter, you’ll need to decrease the shutter speed by 10 stops, for a shutter speed of approximately 60 seconds.

(If you’re not using a filter, then you’ll decrease your shutter speed by zero stops.)

Also, don’t let the mathematics intimidate you. On the internet, you can easily find conversion tables and apps for your smartphone that will do the conversion in moments.

Finally, take your photo!

Step 9: Check the histogram again

Once you’ve taken the shot, check the histogram as a final precaution.

If the new histogram is approximately equal to the histogram of the test shot, you’ve accomplished your mission (feel proud!). But if the new histogram is shifted too far to the right or the left, repeat the shot again, but adjust the shutter speed accordingly.

Tips and ideas for amazing long exposure images

Now that you’re familiar with the basics of the approach, I’d like to share a few long exposure ideas and tips to ensure consistently outstanding results, starting with:

1. Don’t be afraid to use ultra-long shutter speeds

Many long exposure photographers tend to stick to shutter speeds ranging from 1/30s to 20s, and that’s totally fine. But here’s the thing: By pushing beyond these limits and venturing into the realm of ultra-long exposures, you open up a whole new world of creative possibilities.

When you extend your shutter speed beyond 30 seconds, something magical happens. Clouds start streaking across the sky, resembling delicate brushstrokes on a canvas. Water loses its form and transforms into a dreamy, ethereal blur. And if you’re patient enough to use a shutter speed of long minutes or even hours, your images can acquire an enchanting sense of timelessness.

Capturing these ultra-long exposures does require a specific approach. You’ll need a powerful neutral density filter to control the amount of light entering your lens, and it’s often best to shoot during the golden hours or even at night to avoid overexposure. But even with this inconvenience, the results are absolutely worth it!

2. Try capturing light trails

Light trails refer to mesmerizing streaks of light created by moving cars, and they’re a great way to add an extra bit of flair to your long exposure photography.

When shooting light trails, it’s best to venture out during the nighttime. That’s when the headlights and taillights of passing vehicles will be on and visible. Find a road or a busy intersection to compose your shot.

Set your shutter speed to at least 10 seconds or longer. As a car approaches, start your exposure just before it enters the frame and let it continue until it exits. This way, you’ll capture the full trail of light left behind.

Experimentation is key here. Adjust your shutter speed as needed to achieve the desired effect. You may need to try a few shots to find the right balance, so take your time, and make sure you frequently check your camera’s LCD to determine how to tweak your settings.

3. Try a black-and-white conversion

Long exposure shots have a certain magic to them, and they can look even more captivating when transformed into black and white. The bright streaks created by flowing water and drifting clouds stand out beautifully against the darker surroundings. If you usually shoot in color, why not give black and white a go?

The best part is that you don’t have to decide whether to go black and white while you’re shooting. You can simply import your image into your favorite post-processing software, click on the black-and-white conversion button (trust me, it’s there!), and letthe magic happen. You can even play around with the tonal sliders to adjust the level of contrast and make certain elements pop.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and see how your long exposure shots transform in black and white. It might just give them a timeless and artistic quality that adds an extra wow factor to your images.

4. Shoot breathtaking cityscapes

Cityscape photography is not just about capturing quick snapshots; with the right approach, even an average city skyline can be result in a stunning long exposure image.

Timing is everything when it comes to shooting cities. For the most dramatic results, aim to shoot during the magical moments of sunrise or sunset. These times of the day offer a soft, golden light that can create a dreamy atmosphere. If the sky features a scattering of clouds, these can add a touch of magic by streaking across the frame.

Pro tip: If you can position yourself near a body of water, such as a river or a lake, it will provide a captivating foreground element that complements the buildings in the background.

To capture these breathtaking cityscapes, set up your camera on a sturdy tripod to keep it steady throughout the long exposure. Select a shutter speed that allows for an extended period of light capture, such as several seconds or even minutes. This will create the desired effect of smooth, flowing lights and ethereal streaks. Experiment with different exposure times to find the perfect balance between capturing movement and maintaining sharpness in the stationary elements of the composition.

Don’t forget to review and adjust your settings as you go. Take a moment to preview the images on your camera’s LCD screen and make any necessary tweaks to achieve the desired result. Patience and persistence are key when it comes to cityscape photography, so don’t be afraid to try different angles, focal lengths, or even revisit the location at different times of day to capture the city’s ever-changing beauty.

5. Capture some long exposure street scenes

You might think that long exposure photography is all about serene landscapes and dreamy seascapes, but it works wonders for capturing vibrant and dynamic street scenes and building interiors, too! With a little bit of creativity and the right techniques, you can turn bustling city streets into mesmerizing works of art.

To get started, find a location with lots of movement, like a bustling square or a busy train station. Look for interesting architectural elements or captivating streetlights that can serve as your backdrop. These stationary elements will provide a solid foundation for your shot.

Now, here comes the fun part. Set your camera on a tripod to keep it steady and choose a shutter speed of around 1 second. This will allow enough time to capture the motion of people passing by. Position yourself strategically to compose the shot, making sure to include the stationary elements in the frame.

Once everything is set, wait for the perfect moment when people are in motion. Press the shutter button and let the magic happen. As the exposure continues, the moving individuals will appear as ghostly figures, creating a sense of energy and movement in contrast to the static elements. It’s like freezing a moment in time while everything else is in motion.

Experimentation is key here. Depending on the speed at which people are moving and the desired effect, you may need to adjust your shutter speed. Play around with different settings, reviewing each shot on your camera’s LCD screen. Don’t be afraid to slow things down even further or speed them up to achieve the desired level of motion blur.

6. Photograph buildings with cloud streaks

Want to add some architectural magic to your long exposure repertoire? This next idea is all about capturing buildings with mesmerizing cloud streaks in the background.

First things first, find yourself a building with an interesting exterior. Think majestic churches, sleek skyscrapers, or even historic landmarks. The key is to have a subject that stands out and demands attention.

Now, choose a day with a decent amount of clouds. You don’t want it to be completely overcast, but a few puffy white ones drifting by will do the trick. These fluffy creatures will become the perfect backdrop for your architectural masterpiece.

To achieve those dreamy cloud streaks, you’ll need to slow down your shutter speed substantially. This is where a strong neutral density filter comes into play, allowing you to extend the exposure time without overexposing the shot.

Frame your shot to showcase the building in all its glory. Pay attention to the angles, lines, and unique details that make the structure stand out. Once you have the perfect composition, it’s showtime!

Trigger the shutter and watch as the clouds gracefully drift across the sky. Aim for an exposure time of several minutes or more, depending on the desired effect. This will give the clouds enough time to create those beautiful streaks while keeping the building tack-sharp.

Pro tip: Once you’ve captured the shot, consider converting it to black and white during post-processing. The contrast between the sharp architectural details and the ethereal cloud streaks is bound to leave a lasting impression!

7. Bring plenty of batteries

Long exposure photography can be an exhilarating experience, but it can also be a real drain on your camera’s battery life. You wouldn’t want to miss out on capturing that perfect shot just because your battery decides to call it quits. That’s why it’s crucial to come prepared with an ample supply of batteries to keep you shooting without interruption.

When you embark on your long exposure adventures, make sure you pack more than enough batteries to keep your camera powered up. While a single battery might last you a decent amount of time for regular photography outings, long exposures can put a heavier demand on power.

It’s a good rule of thumb to bring at least two spare batteries with you, and if you’re planning an all-day photography escapade, having three or even four extras can be a game-changer. This recommendation holds particularly true if you’re using a mirrorless camera that’s known for a shorter battery life.

Ensure that your extra batteries are fully charged before you head out. This simple step can save you from the disappointment of discovering that your backup batteries are just as drained as the one in your camera. A little proactive charging goes a long way in keeping your long exposure journey uninterrupted.

How to capture stunning long exposure photos: final words

Well, there you have it: This comprehensive guide to mastering long exposure photography is complete! With the right gear and a dash of creativity, you can transport your viewers to a realm where time stands still. It’s all about finding the perfect balance between stillness and movement, blur and sharpness, to create images that leave a lasting impact.

Remember the approach that I’ve shared and have plenty of fun. Then, once you can create consistently great photos, don’t be afraid to experiment; the best images often come from breaking the rules!

Now fill your backpack with your gear and embark on a long exposure adventure! Your next masterpiece awaits.

Over to you:

Do you have any additional long exposure photo tips that we missed? What subjects do you plan to shoot? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Long exposure FAQs

When should you do long exposure photography?

You can do long exposure photography at any time provided you have the right equipment. I recommend starting out with long exposure photography in the very early morning or the very late evening; that way, you’ll be able to see what you’re photographing, but the limited light will allow for impressively long exposures. Generally speaking, the easiest time to do long exposure photography is any moment when the light is limited.

Can you take long exposure photos in daylight?

Yes! However, you’ll need a neutral density filter. Otherwise, your long exposure images will turn out too bright.

Why are my long exposure shots white?

If your long exposure photos are white, then you’re overexposing your images. You’ll need to increase the shutter speed, narrow the aperture, or drop the ISO to compensate for this issue.

What is meant by “long exposure” in photography?

Long exposure refers to a technique where you keep the shutter open for an unusually long period of time. So instead of capturing an image in a split second, you trigger the shutter button and wait – often for minutes or even hours – until the exposure is finished!

The post Long Exposure Photography: A Step-By-Step Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Francesco Gola.

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Car Photography: 18 Tips for Breathtaking Images ( Examples)

The post Car Photography: 18 Tips for Breathtaking Images (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Desmond Louw.

Looking to elevate your car photography? Prepare to learn the secrets of the pros.

There’s something undeniably magical about cars. The sleek curves, the gleaming paint jobs, the raw power under the hood, not to mention the amazing features and utility; it’s no wonder that so many folks are passionate about – or even obsessed with – automobiles.

But for car photographers, the situation is a little more complex. Automotive photography is exhilarating, but it also comes with a host of challenges: Cars are reflective, they’re fast-moving, and they can easily blend in with both urban and rural backdrops.

Fortunately, as a professional car photographer, I’ve spent hundreds of hours behind the camera, and along the way, I’ve developed powerful techniques that essentially guarantee top-notch shots. In this article, I share 18 practical tips, including:

• How to capture breathtaking images of moving cars
• The best lighting for car photoshoots
• Plenty of ideas for amazing car pictures
• Common car photography mistakes to look out for
• Much, much more!

Whether you’re an aspiring car photographer or a seasoned pro looking to enhance your skills, this article is your roadmap to success. So grab your gear, buckle up, and prepare for a wild ride!

1. Spend some time researching each car

Every car has a story to tell, and as a car photographer, it’s your job to unveil that story through your lens. Of course, you can’t tell a story if you’re unfamiliar with its details, so in the days leading up to each shoot, take the time to research the car you’ll be photographing

Start by digging into the car’s unique features and selling points. Look for advertisements or brochures that highlight these key aspects. Familiarize yourself with what makes that particular model stand out from the crowd.

Once you have a solid understanding of your subject, be sure to keep all the key information in mind during the actual photoshoot. Capture photos that draw the viewer’s attention to the standout features you researched. If the car is known for its lightning-fast speed, think about creating some dynamic shots that incorporate motion blur. For a car with a sleek design, emphasize those lines and curves by getting up close.

But don’t stop with individual car research. Expand your knowledge beyond specific models; if you aren’t already a car enthusiast, work to become one. Familiarize yourself with essential specifications, understand how different features work, and learn to speak the language of the automotive world. This not only helps you communicate better with car owners during your photoshoots but also boosts your confidence and credibility as a photographer.

2. Pick the right car photography gear

Capturing breathtaking car images requires having the right gear in your arsenal. Think of your camera and lenses as your trusty companions on this photographic adventure. While certain types of car photography may demand more specialized equipment, in general, you’ll need a powerful mirrorless camera or DSLR and lenses covering a range of wide-angle and standard focal lengths.

When it comes to cameras, any modern mirrorless camera or DSLR can do a commendable job of capturing stationary car exteriors. However, to freeze the action and create sharp shots, you’ll need a camera with fast autofocus and high continuous shooting speeds. Look for models that can handle at least 10 frames per second, giving you the ability to capture every exhilarating moment.

For optimal image quality, consider cameras with full-frame or APS-C sensors, providing solid high ISO capabilities. This ensures that you can capture detailed shots of car interiors without worrying about excessive noise ruining the image.

Now, let’s talk lenses. You can opt for a selection of fast prime lenses covering focal lengths from around 24mm to 85mm. These primes offer excellent image quality and versatility in various shooting scenarios. Alternatively, a 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom lens provides convenience and flexibility, allowing you to adapt to different situations without constantly swapping lenses.

If you plan on delving into night-time car photography, consider adding a tripod to your gear collection. It enables you to capture stunning long-exposure shots that showcase both the car and the surrounding elements, like mesmerizing light trails or the gentle flow of water.

With the right gear in hand, you’ll be fully equipped to unleash your creative vision and capture striking car images that leave viewers in awe. Remember, investing in quality gear can significantly elevate the impact of your photography.

3. Shoot at the right time of day

The most common mistake people make when shooting cars? Heading out during the middle of the day, when the light is harsh, unflattering, and just all-around bad. It’s a surefire way to end up with poor automobile shots, and it certainly isn’t going to impress your clients.

Instead, the best time to do car photography is a few minutes after sunset (or a few minutes before sunrise). The light is soft, there’s no direct sun, and you can capture a beautiful, almost ethereal, effect. Use a tripod – the light won’t be particularly strong, so a remote release is also a good idea – and get that perfect soft light on the paint.

Note that you can also shoot cars during the golden hours – an hour or two before sunset and an hour or two after sunrise – but be careful; the more direct the lighting, the harder it is to create a flattering image. For close-up images, consider using a reflector to deal with pesky shadows.

Another option is to work on overcast days – the clouds do a good job of diffusing the light – but since the weather is difficult to predict, this isn’t really something you want to bank on. Instead, work close to sunrise and sunset whenever possible!

This photo was taken a few minutes before sunrise:

4. Match your camera settings to the scenario

In the exhilarating world of car photography, there’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to camera settings. It all depends on the situation, the desired effect, and the story you want to tell through your images. So, buckle up as we dive into the art of experimenting with different settings to capture breathtaking car shots.

When you’re aiming to freeze the action and keep the car tack-sharp, crank up that shutter speed to at least 1/1000s or higher. This might require widening the lens aperture or increasing the ISO, depending on the lighting conditions. To maintain exposure control without worrying about unexpected light changes, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority mode will be your trusty companions.

Interior shots, on the other hand, call for a delicate balance. You’ll want to keep the shutter speed relatively low to maintain sharpness, but also fast enough to prevent blurring. Boosting the ISO slightly and widening the aperture will come in handy here. And don’t forget to steady yourself against the car to avoid any unwanted camera shake.

When capturing motionless cars in all their stationary glory, Manual mode is your go-to. Set your ISO to its base value, select the aperture that suits your desired depth of field, and then fine-tune the shutter speed to achieve the perfect exposure. Remember, these settings are not set in stone! Feel free to mix it up, play with wider or narrower apertures, and explore the creative possibilities.

In this ever-evolving journey of car photography, experimentation is key. Don’t be afraid to push the boundaries, step out of your comfort zone, and discover new settings that bring your car images to life.

5. Confidently seek out new cars to photograph

Let’s face it, unless you’re already drowning in client requests, the cars won’t come knocking on your door, begging for their portraits to be taken. But fear not, my fellow photographers, because I’ve got some ingenious strategies to help you uncover your next gem.

Start close to home. Reach out to friends and family who own eye-catching rides and kindly ask if you can photograph their prized wheels. Not only will this give you a chance to practice your skills, but it’ll also help you build a portfolio that’ll attract larger opportunities down the road. Put your heart and soul into those shots, and let them become the bait that lures in even more impressive catches.

Once you’ve mastered the basics and have a solid repertoire of awe-inspiring images, it’s time to spread your wings and approach strangers. Picture this: you spot a breathtaking car on the street, your heart races, and you can’t resist the urge to capture its essence. Summon your courage, stride over with confidence, and pay the owner a genuine compliment. Politely inquire if they’d allow you to photograph their automotive beauty. You’d be surprised how often people are willing to say yes, especially when you present yourself as a consummate professional armed with business cards and a dazzling website showcasing your automotive masterpieces.

Car shows are another goldmine for encountering passionate car lovers and finding an abundance of subjects in a single location. Join the automotive congregation, armed with your camera and a keen eye for detail. Strike up conversations, make connections, and let your enthusiasm for cars shine through. The more you put yourself out there, the more doors will swing open, leading you to coveted opportunities and remarkable vehicles begging to be immortalized through your lens.

6. Be on the lookout for reflections

If you’re after professional car photos, you must carefully control what reflects in the car. One of the most important things you want to show in your car pictures is the design lines, yet reflections can spoil these lines very quickly. So before you capture a single photo, have a look around you, then look closely at the car and see what reflects off its surface.

You see, a car (especially a new, shiny one) is like a mirror. So if you shoot with buildings or trees in front of the car, they’ll reflect off its surface and appear in your photos. Instead, aim to have an open space behind you, like a field or an ocean. If you’re stuck in a location with busy surroundings, you can always try to change your perspective; by getting down low, you may be able to get rid of the distractions and instead come away with a sky reflection in the car (which looks way better; see the image at the end of this section).

Pro tip: Be very careful not to include your own reflection in the photo. If you’re struggling, it’s best to put the camera on a tripod, set the self-timer, and move out of the shot. Just look at this photo I took of a dark, shiny BMW 428i; behind me was nothing except the horizon. In fact, you can clearly see the horizon reflecting in the car:

7. Work each car from a variety of angles

In the exciting realm of car photography, it’s crucial to approach each subject with a fresh perspective. Instead of settling for shots from a single direction, let your creative instincts take the wheel and explore the full range of angles. Capturing a car’s essence requires a well-rounded approach that encapsulates its unique details and character. While the temptation to focus solely on the front or profile shots may be strong, don’t limit yourself—there’s a whole world of possibilities waiting to be discovered.

Consider the captivating three-quarters angle, which can add a touch of intrigue and showcase the car’s sleek lines. Experiment with capturing the rear of the car, revealing its distinctive features and personality from a different viewpoint. Play with vantage points by elevating your position, whether it’s from a ladder, balcony, or even a parking garage, to provide a fresh perspective. And don’t be afraid to get low, allowing the car to loom powerfully in the frame, commanding attention and conveying a sense of strength.

Keep in mind that not every shot will be a winner, but by exploring a variety of angles, you open yourself up to the possibility of capturing outstanding images that truly showcase the car’s allure. It’s all about finding the perfect balance between creativity and technical skill, ensuring that each angle enhances the narrative you want to convey.

8. Don’t forget to capture interior images

In the electrifying world of car photography, it’s easy to become captivated by the mesmerizing exteriors of these four-wheeled beauties. But, hold your horses, my fellow photographers! Don’t let the allure of sleek curves and shining paint distract you from a crucial aspect of the automotive experience—the interior. Yes, my friends, it’s time to venture inside the cabin and capture the soul of the car from within.

Picture this: the supple leather seats beckoning you to sink into their embrace, the polished dashboard gleaming under the warm glow of ambient light, and the intricate details of the steering wheel waiting to be admired. These elements hold the key to telling a complete story, showcasing not just the external aesthetics but also the essence of comfort, luxury, and performance that lie within.

When it comes to photographing car interiors, a few pointers will set you on the right track. First, ensure that your client understands the significance of these shots, especially if they intend to use the images for listings or advertisements. Encourage them to prep the car by giving it a thorough interior clean and tidying up any loose items.

Car interiors can be notoriously challenging to capture due to their relatively dim nature. Seek out opportunities to park the car in well-lit areas or position it strategically to allow natural light to flood through the windows, illuminating the space with a touch of magic. If needed, don’t shy away from adjusting your camera settings, such as cranking up the ISO or lowering the shutter speed, to maintain sharpness while capturing the cozy ambiance.

9. Take driving shots

Here’s one of my favorite tips for creative car photography:

Shoot the car out of another moving car. (Please be super careful when doing this; make sure that both you and your camera are well-secured before even thinking about taking a photo.)

A moving car shot looks gorgeous, plus it conveys a beautiful sense of motion. This Audi S3 was shot before sunset; it was driving at 70 km/h (43 mph), and I used a shutter speed of 1/125s:

Unfortunately, you can’t just hop into your car, zoom along, and take some photos out the window. Instead, you’ll need to carefully select your speed, position, and settings. Here are my recommendations:

• Get a driver, so that you’re in the passenger seat and free to concentrate on the photo shoot
• Secure your camera to the inside of the car or your body using a strap
• The two cars should match speeds, with your car slightly ahead and in the adjacent lane; 60 km/h (37 mph) is a good starting point, as you’ll get some nice movement on the road and on the wheels, but you won’t be going so fast the shoot becomes difficult
• Set your camera to its continuous shooting mode and set your shutter speed to 1/100s or so. A little blur is good, as it communicates movement. You can even decrease the shutter speed further, though this will decrease your ratio of keepers to duds.
• Shoot on low-traffic roads. You do not want to frustrate or distract other drivers with your photo shoot.

Because this type of shot involves so many (literally) moving parts, you’re going to come away with plenty of failed images. But if you use burst mode, you experiment with different shutter speeds, and you put in the hours, you’ll start to capture some genuinely stunning photos.

10. Pay attention to the color of the car

Different types of paint react differently to changing light. I know I said that you should avoid direct sunlight, and it is true, but you’ll occasionally find colors that handle direct sunlight really well.

Just look at this baby blue Beetle shot in the middle of the day:

So don’t be afraid to experiment with different lighting conditions. And always review your shots carefully afterward, making mental (or physical) notes about the color and how it looks.

Pro tip: If you want to jumpstart your understanding of lighting and car colors, head to a parking lot at different times of the day, then go around and (discreetly) take photos of cars. Obviously, you should use good judgment and be careful; don’t do a full car photo shoot while the owner stands and watches, and look out for cars driving around that might accidentally run you over.

11. Choose your background carefully

A beautiful background adds that perfect finishing touch to a car photo, while a bad and/or distracting background can instantly ruin the shot.

What counts as a good background? Anything non-distracting. Ideally, it should emphasize the main subject and even complement the car (and suit the theme).

Bad backgrounds, on the other hand, are distracting, they draw the eye, and they don’t make sense given the car color, shape, or theme. For instance, dustbins, power lines, and other cars can kill a picture. You can remove these in Photoshop sometimes, but it’s best to avoid them in the first place (plus, it’ll save you time in the long run).

For this Aston Martin shot, I used a simple background. The yellow paint matches the car’s color:

12. Make sure the car is looking its best

In car photography, the condition of your subject is nothing short of crucial. Nobody wants to see a snapshot of a car covered in dirt, scratches, and dents, so before you start snapping away, it’s important to ensure your subject looks its absolute best.

First things first, encourage the car owners to give their prized possessions a thorough wash before the photoshoot. A clean exterior will make those paint jobs pop and ensure a captivating visual experience.

Now, we must acknowledge that some issues may require more than just soap and water. Those pesky dents and imperfections can be trickier to handle. If you find yourself facing a less-than-perfect car, fear not! Strategically adjust your framing to avoid highlighting problem areas and instead focus on the car’s best features. Don’t let a few dings ruin the show.

And hey, let’s not forget about the magic of post-processing! With the right tools in hand, you can digitally transform your car into a flawless masterpiece. I encourage you to use programs like Photoshop to remove blemishes, but remember that every editing step will take extra time behind the computer, so it’s always best to get things right in the field.

13. Capture a mix of wide and close-up car photos

To truly showcase the essence of a car, you need to bring versatility to your photography game. Don’t limit yourself to just wide shots or close-ups—embrace the power of both! Wide-angle shots are like a sweeping vista, setting the stage and capturing the car in its environment. They allow you to paint a vivid picture of the scene, with the car as the charismatic protagonist. Think of it as the opening shot of a blockbuster movie, setting the tone and building anticipation.

On the other hand, close-up shots are all about the details—the intricacies that make each car unique. Zoom in on the sleek lines, the shiny chrome accents, and the finely crafted interior. Show off the stitching on the seats, the texture of the dashboard, and the gleam of the polished surfaces. These close-ups create an intimate connection with the viewer, inviting them to appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry that goes into every automobile.

By incorporating a mix of wide and close-up shots, you’ll weave a compelling visual narrative that brings the car to life. It’s like telling a story through your lens, capturing the grandeur and the subtleties, leaving your audience in awe. So, equip yourself with lenses covering a range of focal lengths and explore the full spectrum of possibilities.

14. Pan for motion blur

I’ve already talked about shooting cars from a moving car. But if you want a beautiful motion blur effect and you don’t like the idea of photographing out a moving car window, why not try panning instead?

Simply stand next to the road and let the car drive past you. Follow the car with your lens in one smooth action and set the shutter speed to 1/125s. You will be amazed by how easy this is!

Of course, you’ll end up with plenty of failed shots, but the good ones will make it all worthwhile (and you can maximize the number of good images by using your camera’s burst mode and firing off a series of shots with every attempt). Also, you can try this technique after dark for some very interesting night car photography results.

This Ferrari was shot at 1/125s at 200mm. The car was driving roughly 37 mph (60 km/h):

15. Let the car interact with nature

Here’s another way to capture a photo that speaks to the viewer:

Don’t just park the car in a parking lot or along a road and snap some shots. Instead, make the car interact with its surroundings.

Examples of this could be a car creating dust or a 4×4 driving over an obstacle. Look at this Chevrolet Trailblazer climbing over a rock:

The car/rock combination emphasizes the ruggedness of the Trailblazer. Plus, by using a wide-angle lens and shooting from down low, I made the car loom, like it’s the king of the mountains.

Here’s another example, this one of a G-Class AMG drifting on loose sand:

Don’t you just love the movement it conveys? The whole photo is packed with energy.

16. Keep your images dynamic (even when the car is stopped)

In the realm of car photography, we often associate dynamism with shots of cars in motion, where the adrenaline is pumping and the excitement is palpable. But what about those moments when the car is at rest, waiting to unleash its power? Fear not, my fellow photographers, for there are ways to inject life and energy into your images, even when the wheels have come to a halt.

One trick in your arsenal is to approach your stationary subject from an angle. By tilting your perspective, you introduce a sense of movement and flow to the composition. Let the lines of the car lead the viewer’s eye on a visual journey, creating a dynamic path that draws them deeper into the frame.

Consider leaving space in front of the car, a breathing room that invites the imagination to fill the void with anticipation. This open expanse hints at the car’s potential to surge forward, igniting the thrill of speed and adventure in the viewer’s mind. It’s a visual cue that stirs excitement, even in stillness.

For the adventurous souls among us, going ultra-wide can yield captivating results. By incorporating the car as a prominent foreground element against a breathtaking landscape, you capture the essence of wanderlust and freedom. The juxtaposition of the stationary car against the vast expanse of nature adds a touch of awe-inspiring grandeur to your images.

This is an Opel Astra shot next to Table Mountain with Cape Town in the background.

Remember, my friends, dynamism is not limited to motion alone. It’s about infusing every frame with energy, intrigue, and a hint of the extraordinary.

17. Shoot at night

Night car photography might sound daunting, but you will be amazed by how easy and awesome it is! The biggest secret here is to find a spot where it’s completely dark; any streetlights or even a full moon could make life tricky.

Once you’ve found the right spot, set up your camera on a tripod. Set your ISO to 100, the shutter speed to 30 seconds, and the aperture to f/9.

When the shutter opens, take a strong constant light source and walk around the car, “painting” it with the light. A normal household flashlight works for this.

There are no rules here. Paint the car in different ways to get different effects, and you will be blown away by the results! Here’s an example of this technique:

This is a Dodge Charger with the skyline of Detroit in the background. The photo took me no longer than five minutes to set up and capture.

18. Enhance your automotive photos with post-processing

Editing is an essential step that elevates your car photography to pro-level status. It’s your opportunity to fine-tune colors, accentuate details, and bring out the full potential of your shots.

Begin with the basics. Adjust the white balance to ensure accurate colors and make those hues pop. Tweak the exposure to find the perfect balance between shadows and highlights, revealing every intricate detail of the car. And don’t forget about minor color adjustments to enhance the overall mood and atmosphere.

But we can go even further. Cloning and healing tools are your secret weapons to eliminate any imperfections that might distract the viewer’s eye. Smooth out blemishes, scratches, or even unwanted reflections for a flawless finish. Additionally, consider adding a subtle vignette to draw the viewer’s focus toward the car and create a captivating visual experience.

As your skills progress, it’s time to explore more advanced techniques. Color grading allows you to unify the scene and evoke a specific mood, giving your images a refined and cohesive look. Dodge and burn selectively to add dimensionality, making the car truly come alive in three-dimensional glory.

Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to editing. Let your creativity run wild and try new ideas. Experimentation is key to discovering your unique editing style that sets your car photos apart from the rest. So, embrace the power of post-processing and unlock the full potential of your car images!

By harnessing the potential of post-processing, you’ll unleash the true beauty and impact of your car photography.

Tips for taking better photos of cars: final words

Well, there you have it! We’ve reached the finish line of our car photography journey – and now, armed with these practical tips, you’re ready to unleash your inner automotive artist and capture breathtaking car shots.

Remember that while automotive photography often seems difficult, even a beginner can get great results thanks to a few handy tricks of the trade. Make sure to choose the right lighting, do your research, choose your gear and settings carefully, and work each car from every angle. Then, once you’re done shooting, be sure to put plenty of time into post-processing so your photos really shine.

So find a worthy subject, then get out there and start practicing! Amazing car photos await!

Do you have any additional car photography tips or favorite images you’ve taken of cars? Share them in the comments below!

Authorship note: This article was originally written by Desmond Louw. In June 2023, the text and images were updated by the dPS Managing Editor, Jaymes Dempsey.

Table of contents

Car Photography

• GENERAL
  • The 5 Biggest Mistakes Newbie Car Photographers Make
  • How to do Automotive Photography on a Shoestring Budget
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • An Introduction to Amazing Abstract Automotive Photography
  • Alternative Automotive Photography: Capturing the Details
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • How to Use Light Painting to Take Incredible Car Photos
  • How to Create Dynamic Photos of Car Light Trails
• INSPIRATION
  • Modes of Transportation – 28 Images of Planes, Trains, and Automobiles
  • 35 Moving Images of Speeding Cars

The post Car Photography: 18 Tips for Breathtaking Images (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Desmond Louw.

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