Tuesday, 4 October 2022

The 9 Best External Hard Drives for Photographers

The post The 9 Best External Hard Drives for Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

The best external hard drives for photographers

When it comes to storing or backing up your photos, the search for the best external hard drive can seem positively overwhelming. There are hundreds of options available in all shapes and sizes, from SSDs to traditional hard disks to network-attached backups. While it’s difficult to make the wrong choice, some options are certainly better than others (depending on your unique situation and photographic needs), and that’s what I share in this article:

The 9 best external hard drives for photographers of all types.

Four children walking through a field
Whether you have pictures of your kids, pictures of clients, or any other type of digital images, you should store them on a solid and reliable external drive.

External hard drives: key terminology

Before diving in too deep, it’s important to familiarize yourself with a few essential terms. The search for a hard drive is often fraught with acronyms, transfer speeds, cable specifications, and other technicalities that can quickly turn the purchase process into a major headache. Understanding what some of these terms mean can help you use your time wisely and more easily determine the right option for you. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Transfer speed – How fast data is sent back and forth between the drive and your computer. Faster is always better, but it’s also more expensive. For photo storage and editing, try to find a drive with transfer speeds of around 1000 MB/sec (megabytes per second). If your main concern is simply backing up photos, you’ll be fine with much slower transfer speeds of 200-500 MB/sec.

SSD – Solid-state drive; basically a tiny hard drive with no moving parts. You can also think of an SSD as a camera memory card on steroids. All modern laptops and most desktops use SSDs instead of traditional spinning hard disks, but external SSDs are still more expensive than their kinetic counterparts.

Hard disk – This was the de facto storage standard for decades but is becoming less common as SSDs increase in popularity and decrease in price. Hard disks have magnetic metal platters that spin around at 5400 or 7200 revolutions per minute. They are much less expensive than SSDs but are also prone to failure with repeated use over many years.

USB 3.1 and 3.2 – These essentially mean the same thing, and the numbers refer to how fast they can move data between devices. Nearly every decent hard drive is going to be USB 3.1 or 3.2. If you see any options that are USB 2, run for the hills and never look back. Those external drives are simply not worth considering.

Nikon lens, a phone, and a USB-C cable on a table
Most external SSDs use USB-C cables like this one. Some external drives use other cables that have USB 3.1 and 3.2 transfer speeds but have connector cables that look a bit different.

USB-C – The history of USB connectors is awash with all manner of cables and connectors, and it’s all rather confusing. Thankfully, things are now coalescing around one simple standard: USB-C, which simply refers to the small oval plug that is common on most laptops and desktops.

RAID – Redundant array of independent disks. This technology lets you use multiple disks, usually traditional spinning hard drives, as a single drive while duplicating everything you put on them. RAID solutions are great for backing up data but are usually more expensive and a bit more complicated to configure than normal drives.

NAS – Networked attached storage. NAS systems are like full-fledged computers, but all the processing power is used to shuffle data around a bank of hard drives. NAS solutions are expensive, but they give you one central location for storing and backing up photos (as well as other data), which you can then access from anywhere within your home or even while you are away.

The best external hard drives for storing and editing photos

Thumbnails in Lightroom
If you store all your photos on your laptop’s or desktop’s internal drive, you’ll run out of space a lot sooner than you might think.

This list is broken up into two main categories. The first part recommends the best external hard drives for storing photos that you normally view and edit. All the drives in this category are suited for photographers who have anywhere from a few thousand to hundreds of thousands of images that they might need to access quickly at any moment. Some are faster, others are cheaper, but all are great options for different kinds of photographers depending on their specific needs.

There is one trait these drives all share: They are SSDs, not traditional spinning hard disks. While many photographers still use the latter in their daily workflow, I no longer recommend them due to their slower transfer speeds and higher failure rates compared to SSDs. All of these SSDs are considered portable, mostly due to their small size and lower power consumption. If you need a drive that can sit next to your laptop or desktop and will store all your photos, any of these will work great.

1. SanDisk 2 TB Extreme Portable SSD

Best external hard drives for photographers SanDisk 2TB Extreme
This little SSD packs a big punch.

SanDisk knocked it out of the park with the Extreme Portable SSD. It’s small, fast, reliable, and can store hundreds of thousands of JPEG files or close to a hundred thousand RAW files. It has a durable outer case designed to keep all your pictures safe even if you drop the drive, and it even has a cutout for attaching a locking mechanism if you want to ensure that it won’t get swiped from your desk. If you work from a laptop, this is an excellent choice since it’s easy to store in a bag or even a pocket.

This external drive hits the sweet spot and offers all the benefits that are important to today’s photographers: it’s small, has great transfer speeds, can take some physical abuse, and won’t break the bank. It’s not the fastest, cheapest, or most durable option, but it’s a drive that I can easily recommend to anyone who needs to add some storage to their photography workflow.

2. Crucial X8 4 TB Portable SSD

Best external hard drives for photographers Crucial X8
Crucial makes some of the best computer memory that you can find – including SSDs.

Crucial might not be as recognizable as some other names on this list, but make no mistake: It’s a heavy hitter in the storage and memory industry, and it offers outstanding options that are great for photographers. Crucial drives are made by a company named Micron, which has been making computer memory and other components since 1978. The Crucial X8 SSD is more expensive than its X6 counterpart, but you get a more durable body and an adapter for slower but more common USB-A cables.

Crucial is also highly regarded for its technical support. The X8 SSD has a three-year warranty, and based on my personal experience with various Crucial products over the years, it’s easy to get help via their website chat or by phone. Most people probably won’t need to contact customer service due to the high reliability of the X8 SSDs, but it’s nice to have that peace of mind.

3. Kingston XS2000 4 TB High-Performance Portable SSD

Best external hard drives for photographers Kingston XS2000
Kingston has a long history of building reliable computer memory and storage.

One of the biggest advantages SSDs offer over traditional hard drives is speed. And if you want one of the fastest SSDs so you can transfer huge batches of RAW files in seconds, the Kingston XS2000 is the drive for you. Its form factor is roughly similar to the SanDisk SSD (above) but thicker, though you won’t find the same level of ruggedness or physical durability. However, for photographers who value speed above all else, it’s difficult to beat the Kingston XS2000.

Kingston boasts transfer speeds of 2000 MB/s, which is twice as fast as the SanDisk and Crucial drives listed above. Real-world results are going to vary depending on factors such as the speed of your USB ports and even the cable you use to plug in the drive, but there’s little doubt that this is simply one of the fastest external SSDs available.

4. Samsung T7 Shield 2 TB

Best external hard drives for photographers Samsung T7 Shield
The Samsung T7 Shield is designed to withstand drops, spills, and other disasters.

Most of the Samsung T7 Shield’s features aren’t going to turn heads; it’s a bit thicker than some of its peers, and it doesn’t boast blazing-fast transfer speeds (though it’s still plenty fast for your daily photography workflow). What it does offer, however, is something that could save your entire digital life: outstanding physical durability.

The outer casing of this SSD is built to withstand the elements as well as any drops, dings, or other incidental damage that might occur in your daily life. It has an IP65 rating, which means it’s protected against water and dust, so you can toss it in your backpack or a duffel bag without worrying about moisture or stray particles ruining your data. Laptop-based photographers will love it, especially those who do much of their work on the road. And if you do all your work from a desktop, while you might not think you need this level of ruggedness, it never hurts to be a bit overprepared!

The best external hard drive for backing up photos

The second category comprises hard drives that are ideal for backing up your photos. These drives don’t have the fastest specs and latest bells and whistles, but they are great for storing copies of your images. If anything happens to your main archive and you own one of these drives, you can get your pictures back quickly and easily. (Another backup solution is cloud storage, but it’s very different from backup hard drives.)

1. Samsung T7 Touch 2 TB

Best external hard drives for photographers Samsung T7 Touch
Any drive can be encrypted, but the Samsung T7 Touch series has a built-in fingerprint reader for added security and peace of mind.

Most of the raw specifications on the Samsung T7 Touch are similar to its peers: a small size, fast transfer speeds, durable build quality, and other competitive features. However, it has one key advantage that no other SSD on this list offers: file encryption with a built-in fingerprint reader for added security. To unlock the drive, you must touch the little glowing square (see the photo above); it then authenticates you and allows you to access all your photos.

Fortunately, you don’t need to touch the drive every single time you look at your pictures – just when you unplug the drive and plug it into another computer. This makes it an ideal solution for mobile or desktop photographers looking to protect their photos should the drive ever get lost or stolen. I keep a backup copy of all my photos at an offsite location – I recommend you do the same! – and the built-in security of this drive is great to have. This SSD costs a little more than its peers, but for security-conscious photographers, it’s a price that’s easy to pay.

2. OWC 4.0 TB Mercury Elite Pro Desktop Storage Solution

Best external hard drives for photographers OWC Mercury Elite Pro
The Mercury Elite Pro series lives up to its impressive-sounding name.

When it comes to backups, there’s a lot to like about traditional spinning hard drives: They are much cheaper than SSDs and you can fit far more files on a single drive. Whereas most SSDs max out at 4 TB, you can easily find larger traditional hard drives for a much more reasonable price. Granted, these drives are slower and take up more physical space than SSDs, but for backups, a traditional hard disk is still a great solution.

OWC isn’t a name most people recognize, but they have been crafting outstanding data-storage solutions for decades. Their Mercury Elite Pro line of drives is well-known for its reliability, and this model also includes shock protection to ensure data integrity even if the drive gets bumped or nudged accidentally. Thanks to a whopping 12 TB storage capacity, this drive can back up your photos – even if you shoot in RAW – without breaking a sweat. If you want the ultimate in a traditional hard drive backup solution, you can’t go wrong with an OWC Mercury Elite Pro.

3. WD 4 TB Elements Portable Hard Drive

Best external hard drives for photographers WD Elements Portable External Hard Drive
Almost as small as an SSD, this hard disk is cheap, portable, and great for backups.

The WD 4 TB Elements Portable sits on the opposite end of the spectrum as the OWC Mercury Elite Pro. It’s small, slow, and doesn’t store nearly as many pictures as its big brother. But it’s much cheaper, and it has an ace up its sleeve that makes it an excellent solution for photo backups: It’s extremely portable. Now, by most accounts, it would just make sense to get a 4 TB SSD instead of a traditional hard disk. However, as the discerning photographer might ask, “I own one hard drive, but do I need a second?”

And indeed, for a solid backup solution, you should really keep a second drive at an offsite location: at your office, at a friend’s house, or even with a family member who you only see a few times a year. If your only backup is in the same physical location as the rest of your photos, it only takes one fire, flood, or other catastrophic event for you to lose everything. I recommend this diminutive Western Digital drive because it’s so inexpensive; you can buy two or three for the same price as a single 4 TB SSD. Keep one at home and one offsite, and if disaster strikes, you’ll be up and running in no time.

4. WD 8 TB My Cloud EX2 Ultra Network Attached Storage

Best external hard drives for photographers WD MyCloud EX2 Ultra NAS
Western Digital’s MyCloud drives make NAS simple and easy to use.

There’s a common quip in many corners of the internet: “There is no cloud. It’s just someone else’s computer.” Whenever you store files, photos, or other data in the cloud, all you’re really doing is putting them on a hard drive in a giant warehouse somewhere else in the country or the world. This WD MyCloud drive offers an innovative solution positioned between traditional storage and cloud-based storage: You create your own so-called “cloud.”

The WD My Cloud EX2 drive is a great option for backing up your photos while also giving you access to them from any device, much like many subscription-based cloud-storage options. The 8 TB option uses two 4 TB drives and is ideal for photographers with years of RAW files and video clips. It’s also a fairly simple plug-and-play solution. Hook it up to your home network with an Ethernet cable, and you can configure it to back up data from multiple computers, which is great if you have pictures on more than one desktop or laptop. You can even configure it as a RAID drive for additional peace of mind. This essentially creates two copies of everything you put on it, so if one of the drives fails, you’ll still have all your photos and other data!

5. Synology 2-Bay NAS DiskStation DS220+

Best external hard drives for photographers Synology NAS Disk Station DS220+
If you’re after the ultimate NAS solution for photo storage and backup, it’s hard to beat Synology.

When it comes to network-attached storage solutions, Synology is one of the best in the world. The company caters to business clients with massive data needs but also offers great options for everyday people. This DiskStation DS220+ is awesome for photographers who want to back up all their photos but maintain easy access from everywhere. It’s a bit more complicated to set up than the WD MyCloud system (above), but if you are serious about getting a solid, reliable NAS with outstanding flexibility, it’s hard to go wrong with this device.

The first thing you might notice is that the Synology DiskStation doesn’t come with any hard drives. You have to buy them separately, which seems a bit counterintuitive until you realize that you can choose the drives that are right for you. Load your drives into the DiskStation, plug the system into your network with an Ethernet cable, and you’ll be off and running. Casual users might prefer the simplicity of a solution like WD MyCloud, but if you want a more advanced NAS that can handle photo backups and anything else you need, the Synology 2-Bay NAS DiskStation DS is an outstanding choice.

Honorable mention: Drobo 5D3

Best external hard drives for photographers Drobo
Drobo’s unique solution is great for people who want to easily add more storage to their photo archive.

Drobo occupies an interesting space in the storage market. The company uses its own proprietary RAID solution to squeeze extra performance and flexibility out of your hard drives, which is both a benefit and a drawback. On the one hand, you can add additional drives to a Drobo 5D3 on the fly, meaning that if you run out of space, you can just stick in another drive and you’ll be all set. However, in order to accomplish this, Drobo uses its own proprietary method for storing data – so if something goes wrong and a drive fails, your data won’t be easy to recover.

Drobo drives are somewhat polarizing: People tend to really like them or really hate them. Therefore, I don’t exactly feel comfortable recommending them, but they should be brought up in any discussions about photo storage. Drobo’s website even has a tab specifically for photographers because their drives can work very well for those of us in the business of making images.

Which external hard drive should you choose?

Even after reading through all these options, it can still be overwhelming to choose a drive that’s right for you.

So to make everything simpler, here’s my recommendation: If you want an excellent option for storing tens of thousands of photos, get the SanDisk 2 TB Extreme Portable SSD. It’s reasonably priced, plenty fast for transferring photos, and pretty durable in case you drop it.

And if you need a backup solution, I recommend purchasing a few of the WD 4 TB Elements Portable drives – simply because they’re super cheap and you can easily keep one offsite. I use this solution and it works great. I keep one of these pocket-sized drives in a drawer at my office, and I swap it with the one at home about once a week. That way if my house burns down, all my photos are safely backed up.

Best external hard drives for photographers
Any backup is better than no backup. Whether it’s next to your computer, in a closet, or off-site, it’s essential to have duplicates of your photos in case tragedy strikes unexpectedly.

You really can’t go wrong with any of the options on this list, and it all comes down to finding the external hard drive that’s best for you – even if it’s not what someone else would buy.

What external drive do you plan to use for storing or backing up your photos? Leave your thoughts in the comments section below.

The post The 9 Best External Hard Drives for Photographers appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.



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Monday, 3 October 2022

12 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography

The post 12 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dusty Doddridge.

Tips for gorgeous fall landscape photos

Want to capture the gorgeous hues and moody tones of fall? While creating stunning autumn landscape photos might seem difficult, it’s actually pretty easy – once you know a few tricks.

As an experienced fall landscape photographer, I’ve spent plenty of time in search of those elusive fall photos. I’ve made lots of mistakes, but I’ve also had a lot of success, and in this article, I aim to show you how it’s done.

Specifically, I share 12 practical tips for creating beautiful fall landscape photography. I’ll cover:

  • The perfect lens choice to emphasize patterns in foliage
  • The best fall landscape settings for gorgeous results
  • My favorite type of autumn landscape light
  • Much more!

So if you’re ready to head out into the field and start taking some jaw-dropping shots of your own, then let’s dive right in, starting with:

1. Check the fall foliage forecast

The best fall landscape photos tend to be captured when the colors are at their peak; that way, blazing reds, smoldering oranges, and sunny yellows can be incorporated into image compositions.

Unfortunately, peak colors rarely last for more than a week or two. If you don’t time your outings carefully, you may arrive on location only to find that the trees have not yet changed – or worse, that you’ve missed all the action.

That’s where fall foliage forecasts come in handy. Simply do a quick Google search for “fall foliage predictor in [location],” then see what you can find. Chances are a foliage forecast exists for your area (and if it doesn’t, a forecast probably exists for an area nearby).

Fall landscape photography

Remember, however: The more specific the foliage forecast, the better. Fall color timing can be dramatically different as you change your elevation or latitude; you don’t want to use foliage predictions for New York City to determine the fall colors in London!

One more tip: If you’re busy during peak foliage times, it’s often still worth scheduling a trip. Sure, it’s harder to get gorgeous shots when the fall foliage is patchy, but it’s not impossible. If the fall colors have come and gone, try to convey a sense of the impending winter by capturing a few lone leaves on a tree. And if you’re out shooting a week or two before peak colors, use the few brightly colored trees as focal points in an otherwise green forest.

2. Head out when the weather is bad

Most landscape photography is done during the golden and blue hours, when you have relatively good weather and beautiful ethereal light (maybe complemented by a few clouds).

But autumn landscape photography is a whole different ball game. You can capture nice shots illuminated by stunning golden hour light, but you can often create the moodiest, most autumn-esque shots if you shoot when the sky is blanketed by thick clouds. The overcast light will add a sense of loneliness, it will help bring out subject detail, and (major bonus!) it’ll enhance the fall colors.

Fall landscape photography

If you shoot on overcast days and you like the results, consider taking your moody landscape photography a step further. Take your camera out on rainy days or – if you’re lucky enough to get them in the autumn – snowy days. Just make sure you bring adequate protection for your gear. I recommend a simple rain sleeve, which you can grab off Amazon. Though if you’re in a pinch, you can always use a trash bag plus some rubber bands.

Bottom line: Rain and snow combined with fall colors look amazing. While the shooting process can be a bit uncomfortable, it’ll all be worth it in the end.

3. Use a telephoto lens

Autumn leaves, trees, and forests look so beautiful that it’s often tempting to whip out that wide-angle lens and capture the entire scene.

But while a wide-angle lens can work for fall photography, it’s often nice to go in the opposite direction and shoot with a longer focal length. A 70-200mm or a 55-200mm lens is ideal, though you can also shoot with a 100-400mm lens or even one of those monster 150-600mm options. (Primes work, too, but they’ll limit your flexibility, especially if you’re shooting from roadside overlooks.)

Fall landscape photography

You see, a longer lens can really help simplify the scene and make the shot about more than just the colors. A telephoto focal length lets you emphasize patterns in the leaves, plus it’ll compress the scene to create a beautiful wall of trees.

Fall landscape photography

You can also use the longer focal length to highlight intimate details of a forest interior. Look for patterns, then hunt for the part of the scene where the pattern breaks and include it in your composition. Consider also adding negative space to help isolate your subject. Empty sky works great for this, though you can also create negative space with forest floors or motionless ponds.

4. Use a wide aperture to isolate the subject

Often, photographers shoot autumn landscape photography at narrow apertures, such as f/8 and beyond. And when you’re capturing images full of sweeping vistas or intricate patterns, a narrow aperture makes sense.

However, you can also create unique fall shots with a wide aperture. Set your lens to f/2.8 or f/5.6, then get in close and isolate your subject from its surroundings. You can get a shot like this:

Fall landscape photography

Here, the foreground tree leaves are sharp, while the background becomes a pleasing, slightly colorful blur.

Ultimately, a wide aperture creates visual contrast between the sharp subject and the soft, abstract background. This also adds tension between the real and the unreal, providing you with an image that’s more dynamic and expressive.

While you can always shoot lone trees against colorful leaves, try experimenting with different subjects and backgrounds. Get creative with your choices. Pay close attention to your subject, and make sure you have enough depth of field to keep its key features sharp; it often pays to check the LCD preview after you’ve taken a shot just to be sure.

5. Mix foreground and background elements

My previous autumn landscape tip encouraged you to use wide apertures and isolate individual elements. That approach certainly works well – but it’s also worth trying the opposite strategy, where you seek out broader scenes, then use a wider lens to capture everything.

If you’re traveling in a mountainous area, you may be able to find scenic overlooks, which work great for this type of shot. I’d also recommend looking for a combination of interesting background and foreground elements; that way, you can use the foreground element to draw the viewer into the scene, anchor the composition, and even lead the eye toward the beautiful surroundings.

For the best results, start with a nice background, such as a stand of aspen trees or a beautiful maple tree overlooking a river. Then look for compelling foreground subjects. Mossy rocks, fallen leaves, and even rocks can work great. The key is to choose an item that complements the background but is also interesting in its own right.

Fall landscape photography

You’ll need to use a wide-angle lens (the wider, the better) to include the entire scene in your composition. You should also narrow your aperture to at least f/8 (and probably f/11, f/13, or even f/16) to keep the entire scene sharp. (As I discuss below, a tripod can also be handy in these scenarios!)

6. Use a tripod (and watch your shutter speed)

If you’re planning to create autumn landscape photos using a wide aperture, you can often get away with handheld shooting – but in general, the best approach is to mount your camera on a tripod right from the beginning.

You see, since fall landscape photography is often done on cloudy (and even rainy) days, the light tends to be pretty limited. Therefore, if you want to capture a decent exposure, you’ll need to either use a wide aperture, a high ISO, or a slow shutter speed.

As I mentioned above, a wide aperture can work, but it’s not always the right way to go. If you want to keep your entire shot sharp, an f/2.8 or f/4 aperture won’t get you enough depth of field. And while a high ISO will boost the exposure, it’ll also introduce unpleasant noise.

Your best option, then, is to lower the shutter speed. This will stop you from handholding your shots, but it’ll let you use a narrow aperture, and a low ISO and get a good exposure – all at the same time. With a sturdy tripod, dropping the shutter speed to 1/60s, 1/30s, or even 1s shouldn’t be an issue, though you’ll need to be careful if you head out on windy days.

In particular, you’ll need to pay attention to leaf movement – if your shutter speed is too slow and the wind is blowing hard enough, you’ll end up with motion blur. And while a little motion blur isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it’ll reduce the overall appearance of sharpness, so just be careful and only drop your shutter speed as needed.

7. Look for patterns and textures

Fall color photos tend to start with, well, color. It’s what generally draws you to the scene in the first place, after all.

However, the best fall landscape shots merely use color as a jumping-off point.

In other words, they include color, but the color doesn’t carry the image. Instead, the composition relies on color plus patterns and textures to hold the viewer’s interest.

Fall landscape photography

Many fall scenes do have plenty of interesting patterns and textures to work with, so moving beyond color isn’t especially difficult. Simply find some reds, yellows, and oranges that you like – then think about other compositional elements you can incorporate into the shot.

For the photo below, I used a combination of yellow color, forest floor texture, and tree repetition to create an eye-catching result:

8. Bring out that macro lens

Photographing larger fall landscapes is great, but if you want to make your shots more unique, consider bringing a macro lens in your camera bag. Then, once you’re done shooting with your telephoto and wide-angle lenses, you can whip out that macro glass, mount it on your camera, and spend some time hunting for those beautiful autumn details.

Fall landscape photography

(If you don’t own a macro lens and you don’t want to buy one, that’s okay! Just bring along a close-focusing lens in the 50-105mm range, like a 50mm f/1.8.)

Forests and fields offer plenty of stunning macro subjects. You can shoot:

  • Lone flowers against a fall foliage backdrop
  • Leaves on the ends of branches
  • Fallen leaves on front lawns
  • Spider webs covered in dew
  • So much more!

Honestly, macro photography can get very addicting, very fast. And fall is an amazing time to dive into the genre!

9. Experiment with intentional camera movement

Intentional camera movement (ICM) involves deliberately moving your camera during a long exposure to create abstract effects like this:

Fall landscape photography

And thanks to the beautiful colors, fall is a great time to try it out.

First, find some nice colors and trees. If possible, ensure there’s contrast between the tree trunks and the autumn leaves (note the white trees and orange leaves in the photo above).

Then switch your camera over to Manual or Shutter Priority mode. Make sure your shutter speed is around 1/30s or longer.

Finally, focus on the leaves, then move your camera as you release the shutter!

Note that intentional camera movement is very hit-and-miss, so don’t be discouraged if your first shots don’t turn out as great as you hoped. Definitely experiment with moving your camera in different directions (I recommend vertical movement, but you can try horizontal or even diagonal). Also, experiment with different shutter speeds and the pace of moving your camera until you find the right amount of blur.

10. Look for elements that contrast with the fall color

Fall colors are usually bright and have textures and patterns. To really take your photos to the next level, find nice colors – but be sure to contrast them with darker elements. That way, you can create dramatic tension.

Look at the image displayed below. It features some nice, bright, well-lit trees, but they’re juxtaposed with a dark, shadowy rock face:

Fall landscape photography

And it’s that contrast, that drama, that elevates the shot.

Of course, dark rocks aren’t the only contrasting element you can use in your photos. You can include sun/shade contrast (where your subject is lit by the sun but the background is in shade), you can contrast fall colors with dark water, or you can contrast bright fall colors with darker, browning fall colors (the opportunities are endless!).

11. Don’t forget to look up

The interior of a forest can be an amazing place to shoot the fall colors, but it’s often difficult to find a pleasing composition. Sometimes, you just can’t isolate individual elements and you can’t find interesting patterns. You might be ready to throw in the towel, but I’d recommend you try something else:

Look up and explore the canopy.

This works best on sunny days; images that contrast fall colors with a deep blue sky can be really pleasing.

Fall landscape photography

You generally want to keep the trees sharp from foreground to background, so don’t forget to use smaller apertures like f/22. Also, if you shoot through the forest toward the sun, a narrow aperture will create a stunning starburst effect.

12. Carefully process each photo

When you’re out shooting autumn landscapes, you should always do your best to nail the shot in-camera.

But you should also make sure that you carefully review your images when you get back home – and then post-process your best files.

Why? For one, RAW files are designed to be edited. Unprocessed RAW files tend to look pretty flat and bland, whereas processed files can look far more colorful and contrasty (closer to how you saw the scene at the time).

For instance, most RAW files look better with a bit of boosted contrast and extra saturation. I’d also encourage you to remove chromatic aberration, do a bit of sharpening, and make sure the exposure and white balance both look good.

Fall landscape photography

Once you’ve handled the basics, you can stop, or you can use processing to take your photos to the next level. A subtly applied vignette, for instance, will focus the viewer on the main subject. Color grading can create atmosphere and mood. Dodging and burning can add three-dimensionality.

At the end of the day, you have to decide how much editing you’re willing to do. But many landscape photographers apply some serious processing to each and every image they share (and the results are often breathtaking).

Fall landscape photography tips: final words

Hopefully, these tips will help you make the most of your time photographing the amazing colors of the fall season.

And if you found these autumn landscape photography tips helpful, print out the article and take it with you into the field; that way, you can slow down, think through your compositions, and return home with some compelling photographs.

Now over to you:

Do you have any fall landscape photography tips to share? Which of these tips was your favorite? Share your thoughts – and photos! – in the comments below.

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The post 12 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dusty Doddridge.



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